This fabric can be identified by its characteristic diagonal lines. Diagonal patterns may differ, depending on the yarns picked up in the weave. Twill fabrics have a technical face and back, unlike a plain weave that has a “right” side of the fabric. The side of a twill with the most pronounced wale is more durable, attractive and usually the fashion side of the fabric. If a twill wale goes down to the left on one side, it goes down to the right on the other. Because of its interesting weave, most twills are not printed, and if they are, they are lightweight.

Soil shows less on twills so they are commonly used for pants, sturdy work clothing and upholstery. Because of its weave, yarns move more freely in twills so the fabric is more pliable and recovers better from wrinkles when compared with plain-weave fabrics. Dense twills, with a high count of yarns, are durable, air- and water-resistant.